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Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

How to Replace the Door Glass on a Whirlpool Front Load Washer

 

Part # 8181655. Whirlpool Door Glass/ Inner Door Glass.  

Right now this part is on sale for ONLY $31!

This Whirlpool Door Glass works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Kenmore, Admiral, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.





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Be sure to check and see if this part # will fit your particular model!

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Reasons to Replace the Tub In a Whirlpool Washer

If you have noticed leaking water under your washer or even foul odors in washed clothes, it may be time to take a look at the tub. Years of use can build up sediment around a tub. This will not only start to create foul odors but can also lead to tub corrosion. The average person can remove the tub in a Whirlpool washer. The tub can be thoroughly cleaned and inspected for damage after removal from the washer.

We carry the COMPLETE TUB – Whirlpool Part # W10269756.
Includes:

Outer Tub – Whirlpool Part # W10253866
Tub Gasket – Whirlpool Part # 8181673
Stainless Steel Basket – Whirlpool Part # W10269756
Counterweight – Whirlpool Part # W10008880
Rear Counterweight – Whirlpool Part # 8181644

This part also works with the following brands: Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Kenmore, Admiral, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

Contact parts@laundrypartsmarket.com for more details.

Things You’ll Need

  • Phillips-head screwdriver
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Socket wrench set

Instructions

    • Disconnect the Whirlpool washer power cord from the wall outlet. Move the washer away from the wall so the control console can be placed into the service position without damaging the wall.
    • 2
      Unscrew the retaining screws on the front end of the control console that secure the console to the top of the washer with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Lift the front of the control console and set it back on its hinges to place the console in the service position.
    • 3
      Disconnect the two brass holding clips on the top corner of the washer by inserting a flathead screwdriver into the clip and prying the clip out. The brass clips secure the rear panel to the top of the washer. Unplug the lid switch connector on the top rear of the washer. Press in on the single locking tab and pull the connector apart. Lift the washer cabinet off of the washer base and out of your way.
    • 4
      Remove the fabric softener from the top of the agitator by pulling it straight off with your hand. There is a debris cap inside the agitator. Remove the debris cap by grabbing the handle and lifting it out of the agitator. Use a socket wrench to remove the agitator bolt from the center of the agitator. Grab the bottom of the agitator and lift it straight out of the tub.
    • 5
      Unsnap the eight tab clips that secure the upper tub ring around the outside tub. It may be necessary to use a flathead screwdriver to pry the clips apart. Lift the tub ring off of the washer tub.
    • 6
      Use a spanner wrench to loosen the spanner nut on the spin tube inside the washer tub and inner basket. Insert a large flathead screwdriver into the spanner block and twist the handle to expand the spanner block. Lift the inner basket out of the outer tub.
    • 7
      Compress the compression clamp on the hose connected to the side of the outer tub and pull the hose off of the tub with a pair of pliers. Locate the three areas that the tub attaches to the tub support. There is a spring, locating tab and two screws at each location. Disconnect these three areas and lift the tub away from the washer.
Read more: How to Remove the Tub in a Whirlpool Washer | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5633400_remove-tub-whirlpool-washer.html#ixzz25c2s3glX

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

How to Replace The Flame Sensor in a Whirlpool Gas Dryer

If properly maintained, your gas dryer will last for years. However, even the highest quality dryer will eventually require some repairs to extend its life. If your gas dryer tumbles clothes but is unable to provide hot air, the problem likely stems from a faulty flame sensor. If your dryer’s flame sensor fails, gas doesn’t flow because the ignitor won’t shut off. To fix the problem, you’ll need to change the flame sensor on your gas dryer.


Part # 338906. This genuine OEM Whirlpool Flame Sensor senses heat from the igniter and allows the gas valve to open.

Whirlpool brands include Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and some Kenmore models.

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Things You’ll Need
:
  •     Small screwdriver
  •     New flame sensor
Flame Sensor Diagnosis:

1
Unplug your dryer. Locate and remove the access panel. This panel is typically located on the front of your machine and can be opened without using tools.

2
Set your dryer to its highest setting. Turn on the dryer. Because the electricity is off, the tumbler won’t start, but the gas system will.

3
Observe the gas system through the access panel. Within a few seconds of turning on the dryer, the ignitor will begin to light up. Watch for 60 seconds. If the ignitor does not go out, you have a faulty flame sensor. Turn off your dryer.

Changing the Sensor


4
Remove the wire leads that attach to the flame sensor. These may clip on or be attached with screws. Because the exact location of the flame sensor varies across brands, look at a schematic of your dryer to find the flame sensor. Look for a small box with two metal tabs running parallel to one another.

5
Remove the screw that holds the flame sensor to the interior of the dryer. The bottom of the flame sensor hooks onto the dryer with a small tab. Once the screw is removed, wiggle the sensor to free it from the dryer. Set the old sensor aside.

6
Position the new flame sensor so it is in the same spot as the old one. The hole in the sensor for the holding screw needs to line up with the hole inside your dryer. Use the screwdriver to insert the screw to hold the sensor in place.

7
Reattach the wire leads to the new flame sensor. Replace the access panel. Plug your dryer back into the socket.

Tips & Warnings


You can also test the flame sensor with a multimeter if you have one. Remove the wire leads from the sensor. Place the multimeter’s probes where the wire leads were. A zero reading means the sensor is still working. A reading of 100 means the sensor is faulty.

Read more: How to Change the Flame Sensor on a Gas Dryer | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_12202134_change-flame-sensor-gas-dryer.html#ixzz25W5L5R9v

Friday, August 31, 2012

How To Replace a Whirlpool Gas Dryer Thermostat

The thermostat on your Whirlpool gas dryer operates the ignition to ignite the gas and supply the dryer with heat. Once the dryer reaches a certain temperature the thermostat cuts current to the heating mechanisms. When the heat drops to a certain level the thermostat supplies current to the ignition to once again provide heat. Many times the reason the gas dryer will not heat is due to a faulty thermostat. You can replace the thermostat yourself and get your dryer working again without an expensive repair bill.


Part # 3388697. Genuine Whirlpool Hi – Limit Thermostat – L205-40 that will fit on Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and some Kenmore models.

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Instructions
1
Unplug the Whirlpool gas dryer from the wall outlet. Turn the gas valve off to the dryer. The gas valve will be on the line going to the back of the dryer.

2
Insert a flathead screwdriver or a putty knife between the top of the toe panel and the bottom of the front panel. There is a retaining clip 4 to 6 inches from the right corner that secures the toe panel to the dryer cabinet. Locate the clip with the putty knife or screwdriver and press the clip in while pulling the toe panel away from the dryer.

3
Locate the blower housing on the left side of the dryer. The blower housing is the part that houses the blower wheel. The operating thermostat and the thermal fuse mount to the back of the blower housing.

4
Tape small pieces of masking tape around each of the four wires that connect to the thermostat. Write the location of each wire on the masking tape with a pencil. Grab each wire where the metal leads contact the thermostat terminals and pull the wires off the thermostat. It may be necessary to use needle nose pliers to accomplish this in tight quarters.

5
Remove the two screws that secure the thermostat to the blower housing with a 5/16-inch socket wrench. Twist the thermostat to unlock the thermostat from the housing and lift the thermostat out of the blower housing.

6
Take the thermostat with you to an appliance repair facility. Give the salespeople your model number of your dryer as well. This will help them to get you the correct part for your dryer.

7
Place the new thermostat in the blower housing and twist the thermostat to lock the thermostat in place and align the holes for the retaining screws. Thread the retaining screws through the thermostat flanges and tighten the screws with the socket wrench.

8
Connect the wires to the thermostat according to the wire locations on the masking tape. Peel the masking tape off the wires after you install the wires.

9
Place the toe panel back into place and press the toe panel in until the retaining clips engage. Turn the gas supply valve back on and plug the dryer back into the wall outlet.

Read more: How to Replace a Thermostat in a Whirlpool Gas Dryer | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5810627_replace-thermostat-whirlpool-gas-dryer.html#ixzz2586h17B1

Thursday, August 30, 2012

How To Install a Whirlpool Dryer Igniter

 

Part # 686590 (also part # 279311). This genuine OEM Whirlpool Dryer Igniter is a Flat style igniter and replaces both round and flat igniters. Also known as a Glo-Bar. Fits Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Estate, Sears and Roper gas dryers.

Instructions:

  • 1
    Unplug the Whirlpool dryer from the wall outlet. Go to the back of the dryer, and turn off the gas supply valve. The gas supply shutoff valve is on the house gas line before the flex gas hose to the dryer.
  • 2
    Disconnect the gas line to the dryer with a wrench. Turn the connector on the flex hose where it connects to the dryer counterclockwise.
  • 3
    Go to the front of the dryer, and insert a flathead screwdriver between the toe panel and the front panel. Push the screwdriver handle up to pry the top of the toe panel away from the dryer. Move the toe panel away from the work area.
  • 4
    Disconnect the wiring harness that connects to the flame sensor on the burner can. The harness will pull apart with your fingers. Remove the wiring harness from the burner connector on the base of the dryer below the burner.
  • 5
    Remove the two screws that secure the burner assembly bracket to the base of the dryer with a socket wrench. The burner assembly fits inside the burner tube, and the mounting bracket is in front of the burner tube.
  • 6
    Push the burner assembly forward to release the assembly from the bottom tabs. Pull the burner assembly out of the dryer.
  • 7
    Disconnect the wire connector from the burner assembly to the igniter with your fingers. The igniter mounts to the front of the burner assembly. Remove the screw securing the igniter to the burner assembly with a Phillips-head screwdriver.
  • 8
    Grab the igniter by the rear, and pull it off the burner assembly. Place the new igniter into position, and secure the igniter with the retaining screw. Connect the burner assembly wire harness to the igniter harness until they lock into place.
  • 9
    Set the burner assembly inside the dryer, and position the tabs on the mounting bracket into the tab slots on the base of the dryer. Secure the burner assembly bracket with the retaining screws. Connect the flame sensor wiring harness and the burner connector harness. Push both connectors together until they lock tight.
  • 10
    Position the toe panel back on the dryer cabinet, and push the toe panel until the retaining springs lock into place. Reconnect the gas line to the back of the dryer, and tighten the connection with the wrench.
  • 11
    Turn the gas valve on, and apply a solution of 50 percent dish soap and 50 percent water mixed in a small container with a brush around the connection. If bubbles appear around the connection, tighten the connection. Turn off the gas valve before tightening the connection. Repeat until no bubbles appear. Plug the dryer back into the wall outlet.

Below is a youtube video on How to Install this Whirlpool Dryer Igniter from AppliancePartsPros.com:

Monday, August 27, 2012

How to Install a Bellow in a Whirlpool Front Loader Washer

Part # 8181850. This Whirlpool Bellow is also known as a Boot Seal and is used in front load washers to fix leaking water. This part is used to keep the clothes inside the tub during the wash cycle. The folds in the bellow allow the tub to move separately from the door during the spin cycle.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Kenmore, Admiral, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.  Product Serial # 461970220841

Instructions on how to Install a Bellow in a Whirlpool Duet Washer from Ehow.com:

1. Pull the washing machine away from the wall and unplug the power cord from the outlet. Remove the screws from the top panel at the back of the washing machine using a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the panel from the top of the washing machine. Pull the soap-dispenser drawer out of the front of the machine and depress the clip at the back to pull it off the machine. Remove the screws at soap dispenser using a Phillips screwdriver.

2. Remove the retaining screws from the control panel with the Phillips screwdriver. Depress the clips and pull the control panel off the front of the machine. Rotate the control panel so that you can lay it on top. Open the washer door and remove the door-latch retaining screws with a nut driver. Push the latch into the machine. Raise the front of the appliance off the floor and slide a wood block underneath to prop it up.

3. Remove the retaining screws, with a nut driver, from the bottom of the front panel. Remove the block from under the machine and lower it back down onto the floor. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, pull the outer gasket spring clamp away from the gasket. Peel the gasket away from the opening and push it into the washer. Using a nut driver, remove the retaining screws from the top of the front panel and pull the panel away from the frame.

4. Unplug the wiring harness and set the panel aside. Disconnect the two hoses from the top of the gasket by pulling them out. Grasp the old bellow gasket and pull it away from the washing machine along with the inner spring clamp. Remove the clamp from the gasket and discard the gasket in the trash. Place the new gasket on the washtub, making sure the opening for the inner hoses is at the top. Work the gasket onto the washtub. It may take some effort to get it on.

5. Plug the two hoses into the openings at the top of the gasket. Install the inner spring clamp around the perimeter of the gasket and work it into the groove. Use the tip of the screwdriver if necessary, being careful not to gouge the new gasket. Place the front panel on the washing machine and plug in the wiring harness. Install the top retaining screws using a nut driver.

6. Reach into the machine between the front panel and frame to push the door latch into the opening. Install the door latch retaining screws using a nut driver. Push the door gasket into place around the outer perimeter of the door opening. Make sure the gasket locks into place on the lip. Install the outer retaining spring clamp and work it into the groove. Lift the front of the machine up and slide the wood block under it to prop it off the floor.

7. Install the bottom retaining screws on the front panel using a nut driver. Remove the wood block from under the appliance and lower it back down onto the floor. Reposition the control panel in place on the front of the machine and push until the retaining clips lock. Install the retaining screws for the control panel, and at the soap dispenser opening, using a Phillips screwdriver. Insert the soap-dispenser drawer into the opening and push it all the way in.

8. Place the top panel on the washing machine and install the retaining screws using a Phillips screwdriver. Plug the power cord into the electrical outlet and slide the washing machine into place against the wall. Run the machine while empty for a short cycle to check the new gasket.

Friday, August 24, 2012

Common Reasons Your Washing Machine Won’t Drain or Spin


Nothing is worse than a broken washing machine! Household laundry is hard enough to keep up with, nevermind if you your machine is broken a few days and the laundry starts to pile up!

A washing machine won’t spin if the water can’t drain. Check hoses for any kinks or clogs that may prevent the water from draining. If a hose has kinks, try to straighten out the kinked hose. If it can’t be straighten sufficiently, replace the hose. If hoses are not kinked, check for clogged hoses. This can be done by using the screwdrivers to remove the hoses and looking for clogs or running a water hose through the clogged hose to remove the clog. Use the rags and bucket to clean up the water that comes out of the hoses when they are disconnected. Once the clog is cleared, put the drain hose back into place.

The washer should drain and spin now if a clogged or kinked hose was the problem.If the washer still won’t drain or spin, check to see if the lid is not closing all the way or if the lid switch is not clicking into place. Close the lid and make sure that it closes all the way down. When the lid closes, the lid switch should click. If there is no clicking sound, then the switch may need to be replaced.

Follow manufacturer’s directions for replacing the switch. If the lid does not close all the way, visually check for signs that the lid is bent. If bent, try to bend it back into place.

Loose or broken belts could also prevent a washing machine from draining or spinning. Pull the washer away from the wall and, using the screwdrivers and wrenches, remove the back panel. Using the flashlight, visually check for any broken or loose belts. Replace any broken or loose belts. Although replacing washing machine belts is difficult, anyone who has replaced belts on a car, lawn mower or even a bicycle chain should be able to accomplish the task.

Another possibility for a washing machine to not spin or drain is the pump. With the back panel still off the washer, check the pump with the voltmeter to ensure that the pump is getting power. If the washer is getting power, turn on the washer and listen to find out if the pump is running but the water is still not draining. It may be necessary to remove the pump and clean it or to replace the pump with a new one.

Once the pump is replaced, turn on the washer to determine if it will now drain and spin.
If all of the above steps fail to produce a washing machine that drains or spins, then it is time to call a professional repairman. Use the screwdrivers and wrenches to replace the panel on the washer and push it back against the wall.

Check out Laundry Parts Market if you are in need of a part to fix your washer.  We can verify exactly what laundry part you need if we have the Make and Model # of your washer.
Contact parts@laundrypartsmarket.com or call 888-217-2717 for a quote today.

Monday, August 20, 2012

How To Replace a Dexter Stack Trunnion








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 Part # 9568-011-001 - Generic Dexter Stack Trunnion also known as a Tumbler Support. Replaces Part # 9568-009-005, 9568-009-003.